Using the existing wiring loom with a P200 Stator/flywheel by Timo
If you rewired your P200 12volt stator for 1 wire AC out, you are in luck. Timo wrote up these instructions to use your existing wiring.
NOTE: They have not been tested by me, but I hope someone can verify that this is correct, at least in theroy before you try it.
If not, consider it an experiment.
1. Confirm that your stator is wired for 1 wire AC out. It should have the three CDI wires, Red, White and Green in one bundle, and a Black ground wire and a blue Lighting wire in another bundle.
2. Connect the 12v AC from the stator (blue wire) to the two yellow wires that goes to the rectifier/regulator. (I changed this becasue you have a significantly larger amount of power coming out of your stator than what was coming out of the old FEMSA stator. One wire should still work, but using both of the yellow wires will be better.
3. The white wire that goes from the j-box to the rect/reg should be put on one of the screws in the j-box, not connected to anything. (Floating)
4. On the battery side, connect the yellow wires that come from the J-box to:
5. I installed a generic 12v AC regulator to make sure that I don't blow bulbs. I removed the fuse block, and mounted the regulator in its place. I used the spade on the original voltage regulator/rectifier to help keep loose wires in place. No power is going to the old rect/reg, so it is a great place to connect those loose wires to, so they don’t get hung up on things, or possibly get bumped against the other wires, and ground them out.
6. Replace the headlight, tail light, turn signal lights, with 12v bulbs. You will also need a 12v AC flasher controler. The use of LED
lights might still be needed in order to keep the headlight bright, but the P 200 stator puts out much more power, so it might be fine.
In order for the horn to work, you will need to change it over to an AC unit. I'm not sure, but you might be able to use a single diode, and make the horn work.
Any body know if the diode would work? I might have to experiment with that.
NOTE: They have not been tested by me, but I hope someone can verify that this is correct, at least in theroy before you try it.
If not, consider it an experiment.
1. Confirm that your stator is wired for 1 wire AC out. It should have the three CDI wires, Red, White and Green in one bundle, and a Black ground wire and a blue Lighting wire in another bundle.
2. Connect the 12v AC from the stator (blue wire) to the two yellow wires that goes to the rectifier/regulator. (I changed this becasue you have a significantly larger amount of power coming out of your stator than what was coming out of the old FEMSA stator. One wire should still work, but using both of the yellow wires will be better.
3. The white wire that goes from the j-box to the rect/reg should be put on one of the screws in the j-box, not connected to anything. (Floating)
4. On the battery side, connect the yellow wires that come from the J-box to:
- the Green wire, (The Green wire was originally connected to the bottom left side of the double fuse holder and provides power to the throttle side switch on the handle bar, powering the, headlight, taillight, speedo bulb, and high beam indicator.)
- the Green/White wire, (The green/white wire was originally connected to the “piggyback” spade at the bottom spade of the rect/reg and provide power to the brake and horn), and
- the Brown wires, (The brown wire was originally connected to the bottom spade on the rect/reg and provides power to the signal flasher.)
5. I installed a generic 12v AC regulator to make sure that I don't blow bulbs. I removed the fuse block, and mounted the regulator in its place. I used the spade on the original voltage regulator/rectifier to help keep loose wires in place. No power is going to the old rect/reg, so it is a great place to connect those loose wires to, so they don’t get hung up on things, or possibly get bumped against the other wires, and ground them out.
6. Replace the headlight, tail light, turn signal lights, with 12v bulbs. You will also need a 12v AC flasher controler. The use of LED
lights might still be needed in order to keep the headlight bright, but the P 200 stator puts out much more power, so it might be fine.
In order for the horn to work, you will need to change it over to an AC unit. I'm not sure, but you might be able to use a single diode, and make the horn work.
Any body know if the diode would work? I might have to experiment with that.
